Key takeaways
- Planning sets how much stock the chain can own and where; replenishment works inside that budget.
- Track stock against sales: when stock grows faster than sales, the surplus ends up as markdown.
- Open to buy is what is left to spend after planned sales, closing stock, markdowns, opening stock and orders already placed.
- A plan that holds for the chain breaks at store level, so budget at chain and category level and keep a reserve for each store.
- Review the plan weekly against sales, and move or reorder before the season ends.
Replenishment answers what to order tomorrow. Inventory planning answers an earlier question: how much stock the chain should own this season, and in which stores. Get the plan wrong and no reorder rule saves it: the money is already committed, and the gap shows up months later as empty shelves or a bigger Sale.
1. What a wrong plan costs
Listed retailers report the result every year. In the year to January 2025, delays in the Suez Canal stretched NEXT's delivery times by about 17 days, so it placed orders two weeks earlier; full-price sales grew, but stock grew about twice as fast, surplus stock rose by 15%, and the extra markdown cost it 0.8 points of retail margin1. Primark's parent reported higher inventory after softer sales in the second half of its 2025 year2: once the buy is committed, a weaker season turns straight into stock and tied-up cash.
Across the whole European textile market, the studies the European Environment Agency reviewed found on average about a fifth of products went unsold, and an estimated 4 to 9% of all textiles put on the market are destroyed before use; the agency names better forecasting and inventory management as the way to reduce it3.
2. Plan stock as a share of sales
The retailers that report it well keep one ratio in view: stock against sales. H&M states its stock as a share of rolling twelve-month sales4, Inditex reports inventory next to sales growth5, and Pepco reports stock days6. Read side by side, they show the plan working when stock grows slower than sales:
| Retailer, year | Sales | Stock | What they said about it |
|---|---|---|---|
| NEXT, to Jan 2025 | SalesFull-price sales +5.8% | Stock+12.5% | What they said about itOrders placed earlier because of longer delivery times |
| H&M, 2025 | Sales+2% in local currencies | Stock−5%, currency adjusted | What they said about itStock at 15.5% of twelve-month sales, from 17.2% |
| Inditex, 2025 | Sales+7.0% in constant currency | Stock−2% | What they said about itBuys within the season from nearby suppliers |
| Pepco, 2025 | SalesNot stated with stock | Stock147 stock days to 137 | What they said about itMarkdown and sell-through of old stock |
The right ratio depends on the category. In US retail data for August 2026, clothing stores held about two months of sales in stock and food stores less than one7:
Clothing and accessories stores
Food and beverage stores
US retail, August 2026
So a chain that sells both needs a target per category, not one for the business. The stock turnover guide shows how to compute the same ratio from your own data.
3. The open-to-buy budget
Open to buy turns the ratio into a spending limit for a period. Start from the sales you plan, add the stock you want to end the period with and the markdowns you expect, then subtract the stock you start with and what is already on order. What remains is what buyers may still commit:
Planned sales at cost€100k
Planned closing stock+€60k
Planned markdowns+€10k
Opening stock−€70k
Already on order−€20k
Open to buy€80k
Two things make the budget honest. The closing stock comes from the target ratio, not from last year's habit. And part of it is held back on purpose: NEXT raised its stockholding by a further 6% in its latest year as protection against supply delays, a sized decision rather than an accident8.
4. From the chain to each store
A plan that holds for the chain rarely holds for each store. The further down a plan goes, from the chain to a category to one product in one store, the smaller and noisier the numbers, and the less any forecast can say:
The chainSales are large and stable: a reliable base for the budget
A categorySeasons and promotions show clearly
A storeLocal events and the store's own customers
One product in one storeFew units, many days with no sale at all
So set the budget at chain and category level, and allocate to stores in stages: a first delivery sized from each store's own sales, and a reserve held back for whichever stores sell faster. Inditex's model of buying within the season from nearby suppliers is the same idea at a larger scale5. Moving stock that landed in the wrong store is covered in the guide to stock transfers, and each store's order in the reorder point and safety stock guides.
5. Review the plan every week
A season plan is a forecast, and it starts going wrong in the first week. Read three things each week: sell-through against plan by category and store, stock growing faster than sales, and products that have stopped selling. The sell-through guide shows the first; the dead-stock guide the last.
Even a well-run chain misses. NEXT's end-of-season Sale in January 2026 held more stock than it had expected, up 5% on the year before; better clearance than forecast covered the cost9. The point of weekly review is to see that gap in October, while stock can still be moved or reorders cut, rather than in the Sale.
A small chain reads the same signal in its own data. At the start of October 2026, Tuzeffy's four candy stores in Romania and their warehouse held more than six months of sales in stock at cost, and the two Brașov stores sat at opposite ends: Pralio held far more chocolate than it sold, while Yammy Way Brașov was selling through its pick-and-mix in under a month. A month later the chain held 10% less stock at cost, while its stores sold 27% more:
Start of October 2026984,300 lei1 November 2026884,800 lei
The Yammy Way and Pralio success story has the store-by-store reading and the options marql gave each store.
6. Limitations
The retailer figures are what each company chose to report, for years that end in different months, and mostly from fashion, where planning matters most. The category ratios come from US data; we found no comparable UK or EU series. The open-to-buy example is an illustration, not a benchmark.
How marql supports the plan
marql reads sales and stock for every product in every store from the POS and ERP a chain already uses. It shows each product's days of supply per store, lists stock that has stopped selling, and proposes store orders and transfers between stores as drafts that a person accepts or dismisses. Those are the weekly signals of section 5, read store by store rather than for the chain as a whole.
Sources
- NEXT plc (2025-03-27). Results for the year ended January 2025. londonstockexchange.com
- Associated British Foods plc (2025-11-04). Annual results for the 52 weeks ended 13 September 2025. fca.org.uk
- European Environment Agency (2024-03-04). The destruction of returned and unsold textiles in Europe's circular economy. Briefing. eea.europa.eu
- H & M Hennes & Mauritz AB (2026-01-29). Full-year report 2025. cision.com
- Inditex (2026-03-11). FY2025 results. inditex.com
- Pepco Group (2025-12-17). FY25 preliminary results. pepcogroup.eu
- US Census Bureau (2026-10-15). Manufacturing and trade inventories and sales, August 2026. census.gov
- NEXT plc (2026-03-26). Results for the year ended January 2026. londonstockexchange.com
- NEXT plc (2026-01-06). Trading statement. investegate.co.uk
TopicsInventory planning, Open to buy, Stock allocation, Retail chains
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